9 of the best walking trails in Wales

Jade Braham

Jade Braham

For such a small country, Wales presents a hugely varied landscape. One minute, you're walking along the striking coastline; the next, you're confronted by towering mountains, secret coves and historical landmarks.

Walking the Wales Coast Path
Walking the Wales Coast Path © Alan5766 - Dreamstime.com

Thanks also to its three national parks, the Brecon Beacons, the Pembrokeshire Coast and Snowdonia, its mountainous terrain is now awash with eager and expert hikers.

However, there are numerous unassuming villages, distant islands and Dark Sky Discovery Sites, to name a few variations, that have excellent walking trails embracing Wales's forgotten treasures and individuals who helped shape our nation.

Provided you know where to look, you too can follow in the footsteps of Wales's beloved saints and poets, explore Regency landscapes, or discover 10,000 puffins!

Where to stay: Garwnant, Brecon Beacons*, Forest Holidays - new for 2023.

Skomer Island

Since 1959, Skomer Island has been a protected National Nature Reserve (NNR) and an important European wildlife site, housing 10,000 plucky puffins.

To get there, take a 15-minute ferry from Martin's Haven. Once on the island, there's an easy three-and-a-half-mile circular footpath, taking two hours to compete.

On the ferry to Skomer Island
On the ferry to Skomer Island © Crown copyright Cymru Wales - courtesy of Visit Wales

Look out for the Bronze and Iron Age remains, The Wick, a dramatic cliff covered with seabirds, Skomer Head, rabbit enclosures, the Garland Stone where seals sunbathe, and the farm buildings. The latter has the island's only toilet.

St Davids Pilgrimage Walk

St Davids has been a place of pilgrimage since the 6th century, known worldwide for its grand cathedral and for being Britain's smallest city. Beyond the town is the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, where you can follow in the "footsteps" of St David, Wales's patron saint.

The moderately easy walk covers 8.1 miles of rocky terrain and pink heather, with views across to the Pembrokeshire Islands.

Taking over three hours, this walk starts at St Non's Chapel and Holy Well, where David was reputedly born, before continuing to Porthclais Harbour, the saint's place of baptism, and then to the rarely visited Porthlysgi Bay. From here, follow the headland to St Justinian's Chapel and Whitesands Bay for the site of a Celtic chapel.

Where to stay: Bluestone Pembrokeshire Resort*.

The "Birthday Walk"

Laugharne was dubbed "the strangest town in Wales" by the poet Dylan Thomas, who wrote his 'Poem in October' here, about his birthday walk to Sir John's Hill.

Today, there's a heritage trail, the "Birthday Walk", following Dylan's route, and its easy two miles encompasses the 900-year-old Laugharne Castle, overlooking the wild Taf Estuary.

Passing Laugharne Castle on the Birthday Walk
Passing Laugharne Castle on the Birthday Walk © Crown copyright Cymru Wales - courtesy of Visit Wales

To the castle's right, you'll find Dylan's Boathouse and Writing Shed; and a short walk from here is St Martin Church, which features Dylan's grave.

End the walk at Brown's Hotel, a favourite watering hole of the poet's, now serving the best local beef burgers.

Where to stay: Pendine Sands Holiday Park*, Parkdean Resorts.

The Golden Road

In the Preseli Hills, there is a walking route along a 5,000-year-old Neolithic ridgeway known as The Golden Road. This trek takes four hours to complete (one way) and covers 7.4 miles of rugged moorland and livestock enclosures as well as Bronze and Iron Age monuments.

This was once the main route for prehistoric travellers coming to and from Ireland, and you should start from Bwlch Gwynt, which is on the B4329. This is near Foel Eryr (The Place of the Eagle), which has a dramatic burial cairn at its summit.

Later, you'll pass a graveyard, stone circles, two quarries from which the Stonehenge stones might have originated, and a battleground linked with the Mabinogion, an important collection of ancient Welsh stories associated with King Arthur.

The National Botanic Garden of Wales

Following the five-year, £7-million Regency Restoration Project, the National Botanic Garden of Wales now has the Waun Las National Nature Reserve within its grounds.

Scientist collecting insect samples in Waun Las Nature Reserve
Scientist collecting insect samples in Waun Las Nature Reserve © Carl Stringer - Botanic Garden of Wales

The two-mile Parkland Views Trail is waymarked with blue arrows, follows livestock, wildflowers, fungi, an abandoned 1930s farmhouse once owned by a family of maritime explorers, and the whorled caraway (Carmarthenshire's county flower).

For a more peaceful walk, try the family-friendly Lakes and Waterfall Trail, leading past two Regency lakes, a cascade, a waterfall and a fairy-inspired woodland.

The Elan Valley

The Elan Valley is known for its staggering dams, 12 Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), and the Claerwen National Nature Reserve, home to rare golden plover birds.

Within this, the easy 6.2 mile walk from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre to Craig Goch Dam is worth exploring, as it follows the old Birmingham Corporation Railway line.

Follow the red kite way-marker and you'll pass Garreg-ddu Reservoir, the Harry-Potter-like Nantgwyllt Church and Pen y Garreg Dam. For astrophotographers, Craig Goch Dam is a Dark Sky Discovery Site, excellent for stargazing.

The Gower Coast

Those who love beaches should explore the Gower, an Area of Outstanding National Beauty (AONB). From Rhossili village, follow the easy footpath up to The Beacon, the Gower Peninsula's highest point, where a Bronze Age cairn sits.

View of Worm's Head from the Beacon
View of Worm's Head from the Beacon © Sebastian - Adobe Stock Image

Continue along the Rhossili Down for remains of a WWII radar station before arriving on Rhossili Beach, named one of the world's best beaches by TripAdvisor.

Then make your way to Worm's Head, but be sure to time this right, otherwise the causeway will disappear. Come back at night to spot the ocean's blue, bioluminescent plankton.

Pumlumon Fawr

The four-hour-long Caradoc Jones Trail to Pumlumon Fawr, the Cambrian Mountains' highest point, is named after the first Welshman to reach the top of Mount Everest.

Starting from Nant y Moch Reservoir ("the pig's stream"), the walk encounters the Llyn Llygad Rehidol and views of Snowdonia and Cardigan Bay.

Be aware, this route requires skill and appropriate kit, as you'll pass slippery and muddy ground. It's best to walk with a guide.

Where to stay: Beddgelert, Eryri (Snowdonia)*, Forest Holidays.

Aber Falls Circular Walk

This four-mile, moderate walk leads to the impressive and deafening Rhaeadr Fawr (the big waterfall). You'll come back via higher ground along the North Wales Path where you'll see views of Anglesey, before descending the valley back towards your starting point.

Arriving at Aber Falls
Arriving at Aber Falls © Gail Johnson - Adobe Stock Image

Along the way, take in the Coedydd Aber National Nature Reserve, archaeological remains, and a mound representing a medieval motte-and-bailey castle with links to the last rulers of Gwynedd. Wear a raincoat to avoid the waterfall's far-flung spray.

Where to stay: browse properties of all shapes and sizes across Wales with Sykes Cottages*.

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The above guide shows the weather in St Davids. Find out more about conditions across the country in our complete guide to the weather in Wales.

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Jade Braham

Jade Braham

Posted on Tuesday 13th June 2023 in: Adventure Excursions UK

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